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Living inside a painting: My Journey through Argentina ’ s north

Traveling through northern Argentina is a journey where nature, culture, and history come together in every step. This is the story of how Jujuy left us breathless and full of wonder.

Arriving in Jujuy felt like stepping into a different world, one filled with breathtaking landscapes, vibrant traditions, and a warmth that wraps around you. Our first stop was Tilcara, so tiny that you could suare everyone knows each other. That very afternoon, we embarked on our first adventure: a hike to La Garganta del Diablo, an iconic spot about 3 miles from town. With excitement, we began the climb, although the altitude and lack of sleep made each step a challenge. But when we finally reached the peak and descended toward the waterfall, we were greeted by a tranquil oasis. We sat by the water, savoring tamales and empanadas, feeling the peace of this place slowly wash away the city’s craziness.

The next day, Jujuy stunned us again with one of its most unusual and magical landscapes: La Quebrada de las Señoritas. This place is so vividly red, almost martian, that we couldn’t help but nickname it “Mars.” Our guide, Gustavo, was key to the experience, not only leading us through hidden spots but sharing his deep knowledge of the local wildlife and the importance of preserving the cardones that grows around the area. Then came a moment that made this experience even more special: in a red cavern, while enjoying some snacks, Gustavo began to play Carnavalito on his quena. The notes echoed against the ancient stone walls, and I found myself overcome with emotion. It was one of those moments that stay with you forever.

After two intense days, we decided to slow down and enjoy Tilcara at our own pace. We explored the little town, tried more delicious local dishes, and enjoyed the tranquility. Of course, we also shopped for a lot of traditional, handcrafted items, each piece a unique reminder of the culture and artistry of this special place.

Another must-see destination was El Hornocal, home to the famous Cerro de los 14 Colores. After visiting the local artisan market, we hopped into a 4×4 and start our adventure up the mountain. Along the journey, the village below grew smaller and smaller until it disappeared. After almost one hour of climbing, we finally arrived. The wind was fierce, and as the sun began to set, we watched those striking colors emerge across the mountainside like brushes from some celestial artist, reminding us of how small we are and how majestic nature can be.

For our final days, we faced a tough choice—so many places still called to us! Ultimately, we chose to visit Iruya, a hidden gem nestled in the mountains of northern Salta. After a long journey along winding, narrow roads, we reached this enchanting town with only 300 habitants. 

The energy and harmony there were so tangible you could almost touch them. On our first day, we climbed up to the Mirador del Cóndor. It was one of the toughest hikes I’ve done, steep and challenging due to the altitude, but when we arrive to the summit, we realize every step was worth it. With mates and chocolates in hand, we took in the view from above, watching each little house tucked into the mountain and savoring the sunset that the north gave us that day!

The next day, we set off on a path to San Isidro de Iruya. With rivers, dogs trotting alongside us, sandwiches and mates this walk was one of the most peaceful, joy-filled experiences I’ve had in many years.

My boyfriend captured the essence of this trip perfectly when he said: “Being in northern Argentina is like living inside a painting.” I couldn’t agree more. Traveling through Argentina’s north is a journey of rediscovery, where past and present meet, where the food reflects the heart of its people, and where every view gives you a piece of history. If you ever have the chance to visit, prepare yourself for a world rich in traditions, flavors, and landscapes that feel like a dream.